Jumping and leash pulling are two of the major concerns for pet parents. Every time the dog meets someone new, the dog displays behaviors of dragging their owner and jumping on the new friend. Even my own dogs love to jump.
Positive trainers often suggest turning away from the dog, and sometimes this method works, but there are flaws with this way of training. The more excited the dog, the more they fail. And the more they fail, the more engrained the habit becomes. Here are some of the major flaws that limit my students' success.
One of the main reasons for failure is that with this method as with any other, it must be consistent. Consistency is something we all fight with day in and day out, and I honestly believe that whatever method you choose, there must be consistency. Now here is the catch...it's not just you who has to be consistent, but every single person who meets the dog. The likely hood of this is pretty grim. Many of my students have learned to tell each person they meet to turn around when the dog jumps. Wonderful work guys! However, almost every one of the students, who stick to the criteria like an army Sargent, come back saying that it isn't working. The visitor will nod and agree that yes, they will turn away as soon as the dog jumps. Never having any practice with this method, the plan soon goes awry. And who can expect any different when these people with kind intentions give your dog attention!
Ignoring the dog is not only hard to maintain with other visitors, but it is also very frustrating for both the dog and any human involved. It is not rewarding. Whoever and whenever I train, I want to give both dog and human (even myself!) as much success as I possibly can. This method has way too much room for error on both the dog's and human's side! You're leaving the option of jumping and being ignored way too open. Ignoring the dog should happen when my new method goes awry and you don't want to reward the bad. Not as the main way of training the behavior!!!
The next problem is that these trainers only reward the dog in a sitting position. The first problem with this is that in the sitting position, the dog's hind legs are poised just right to act like a spring toward the greeter's face. Just like a rabbit looks like it's sitting before it springs, we are positioning our dogs in the same manner! The next problem is that if you only reward sitting, you've left an "open to interpretation" position for the dog. When they are standing, they have only been rewarded for jumping, not for keeping all four feet on the floor. Chances are, if you're in a store, or walking down a side walk, your dog will encounter people while he is in a standing position. Walking through a crowded area now becomes a nightmare as people randomly reach out to pet your dog on the way by.
Teaching the dog not to jump by ignoring the jumping behavior, and requiring a sit, are not bad things! In fact, with the method I am about to explain to you, you should be using these criteria. Some dogs will learn just fine with only these methods, but others need a little bit more clarity.
The very first thing I do is work with the dog on moving without jumping. I want to give the dog success at this. With the dog facing you, shift back and forth, when the dog takes even one step, click and drop the treat on the floor. Using the floor delivery will help encourage the dog to stay on the floor. The goal is to click and treat before the dog has a chance to jump. Also, I reward dogs that pay attention, so sniffing along the floor ignoring you does not count. As the dog starts to understand the game of moving and getting treats, you can ask for more. Step a little farther to the side and pause before you click and treat to get longer times of feet on the floor before reward. Once the dog can move with you without jumping, it's time to desensitize the dog to exciting movement.
Click and treat for small movements first, gradually make them bigger. For example, raise your hands away from your body, click and treat. Do bigger motions till you can throw your hands in the air, and the dog will not jump. Next do sounds, first make high pitch sounds of "hi Fido!" very quietly. Then gradually, with more excitement, be louder and louder. Then add the hand motion and the sound, but remember when you put these together to make them small together and gradually work your way back up.
The next thing I teach is a "rest" command. I teach the dog to rest it's head in my hand as I offer treats, that way a visitor can pet the dog's back. I will also use this to teach my dog to rest her head on a bed in hopes that we will be able to visit at a nursing home or hospital. With the rest behavior, you want the dogs jaw to rest in your palm without grabbing their face. Do not hold on. Offer your palm and lure the dog forward till their head is above your hand, lower the treat so that the weight of the dog's head is rested in your palm. Reward multiple times in order to lengthen the time they rest. Once the dog offers the resting behavior, simply add time between treats until they stay there until you release them.
Remember, not jumping is like teaching any other command and behavior, such as sitting or heeling, so train it with success. They do not know what you are asking, so remain patient. The more success you give your dog, the more fun you and your dog will have.
As we say in agility : "one of you better be having fun, and it better be the dog!"
Monday, October 28, 2013
Wednesday, October 23, 2013
Bathing Tips - New Puppy or Dramatic Resident Dog?
Hello there, maybe you're like me - you've had many bathing experiences. Some you might want to repeat, and others, well - we've all had the ones we'd rather forget about. Or maybe you're new to this? A new puppy or rescue dog, you're checking prices at local dog salons. There must be a reason that many people, if not most, take their dogs to someone else to have them groomed. The good news is, whoever you might be, and whatever category you place yourself in, you're not alone. I don't blame you for looking for a salon, because let's face it, bathing at home can be a disaster and it's a guaranteed mess. But with a few tips, you might find it's not so bad. My goal is to have a trauma free, minimal mess bath - and these are the things that help me achieve that with my five month old Border Collie and five year old Aussie.
The best recipe, I always say, to avoid disaster is to be completely prepared. The times that have been a horrible mess have been the times I was dashing to find a towel, trying to find dog soap while holding a dog in the bath, or trying to wrangle the dog to stay in the tub while I get the last of the soap out! Compared to that, being prepared is bliss. So here's a list of tips, many in the order I would go about doing them. Many of these you can also apply to grooming at the "do it yourself" dog grooming stores. I happen to love those, because who couldn't say that they'd like to leave the mess?!?
1. Prepare all the necessities before you get the dog.
~ Dog Soap - Don't use human soap, it will not be good for the dog's skin...Also, having conditioner is a wonderful way to lessen the trauma of brushing afterwards!
~ Towels - lots of 'em. One for your lap to dry your hands on as well as to use as a shield when the dog shakes with shampoo flying!
~ Treats - reward often. Praise the dog too. If you have a helper, and the pup tends to use her teeth too hard on your skin, put the treat in a shallow Tupperware. This works well with children who want to help.
~ Leash to tie the dog into the tub
~ Large cup or dish to dump water onto the dog - or one of those bathing attachments. (I'm searching ebay for one of those!!!)
2. Plan where family members and other pets will be. When you finish bathing the dog, they will be very excited. Some puppies will run around, acting spazzy. If you have young children, have them sit on a couch so that the dog can not jump up on them or bite them. This is not time for chase. With other pets, it's important to make sure that they can escape the excited wet dog. It's best, if the other dog does not like excitement, to put him in another room with the door closed, as well as the bathroom door closed, just in case one of the dogs get out of the room, there's still a door between them. It's not a pleasant way for a resident dog to get use to the new puppy when the pup is jumping on them or biting them.
3. Why tie the dog into the tub instead of holding the leash or having a helper hold the leash? I like to tie them in for a few reasons. The first is this: Holding a dog into the tub when they don't want to be there is difficult, and the frustration you feel will travel right through your hands, through the leash, down to the dog. Face it, they already don't want to be there, and your frustrated emotions are not going to impress a good feeling upon the dog. The second reason: If you hold the leash, you will not be able to keep it completely still. Every time the dog pulls, they will feel the give in the leash. This will encourage the dog to keep fighting in the hopes of getting free - it's very rewarding. They will give up more quickly if it's tied. I just tied my leash to the facet short enough that the dog couldn't jump out.
4. Check the water before pouring it on the dog. Do not try to fill a tub full and have them lay down in it. This is even more threatening. If they thrash around, there's a chance they will go under, terrifying them even more!
5. Don't use too much soap - the more soap the longer the dog must stay in the tub. If you're worried they won't handle it well, soap up only one part of the dog, so that you can rinse that area quickly if you need to get them out.
6. Use messaging and calm quiet words to keep the dog nice and calm.
7. After you finish the bath, take the dog on leash to go outside. With all the stress of the bath, they may not realize they need to go potty, especially if they get "a high" from being wet. Keeping them on leash is important. Most dogs will go roll in dirt or sand, rub against bushes or trees, or even roll in the grass after a bath. If they are that excited they may not listen to you when you call which could be disastrous if they get out of a fenced area.
8. Take your dog's collar off until they are completely dry. Hotspots can occur when moisture is held close to their skin.
I hope these tips help you out, whether your a long time dog owner, or brand new to all this fun. Keeping all these things in mind has certainly increased the amount of good experiences for me and my two loving fuzzballs.
The best recipe, I always say, to avoid disaster is to be completely prepared. The times that have been a horrible mess have been the times I was dashing to find a towel, trying to find dog soap while holding a dog in the bath, or trying to wrangle the dog to stay in the tub while I get the last of the soap out! Compared to that, being prepared is bliss. So here's a list of tips, many in the order I would go about doing them. Many of these you can also apply to grooming at the "do it yourself" dog grooming stores. I happen to love those, because who couldn't say that they'd like to leave the mess?!?
1. Prepare all the necessities before you get the dog.
~ Dog Soap - Don't use human soap, it will not be good for the dog's skin...Also, having conditioner is a wonderful way to lessen the trauma of brushing afterwards!
~ Towels - lots of 'em. One for your lap to dry your hands on as well as to use as a shield when the dog shakes with shampoo flying!
~ Treats - reward often. Praise the dog too. If you have a helper, and the pup tends to use her teeth too hard on your skin, put the treat in a shallow Tupperware. This works well with children who want to help.
~ Leash to tie the dog into the tub
~ Large cup or dish to dump water onto the dog - or one of those bathing attachments. (I'm searching ebay for one of those!!!)
2. Plan where family members and other pets will be. When you finish bathing the dog, they will be very excited. Some puppies will run around, acting spazzy. If you have young children, have them sit on a couch so that the dog can not jump up on them or bite them. This is not time for chase. With other pets, it's important to make sure that they can escape the excited wet dog. It's best, if the other dog does not like excitement, to put him in another room with the door closed, as well as the bathroom door closed, just in case one of the dogs get out of the room, there's still a door between them. It's not a pleasant way for a resident dog to get use to the new puppy when the pup is jumping on them or biting them.
3. Why tie the dog into the tub instead of holding the leash or having a helper hold the leash? I like to tie them in for a few reasons. The first is this: Holding a dog into the tub when they don't want to be there is difficult, and the frustration you feel will travel right through your hands, through the leash, down to the dog. Face it, they already don't want to be there, and your frustrated emotions are not going to impress a good feeling upon the dog. The second reason: If you hold the leash, you will not be able to keep it completely still. Every time the dog pulls, they will feel the give in the leash. This will encourage the dog to keep fighting in the hopes of getting free - it's very rewarding. They will give up more quickly if it's tied. I just tied my leash to the facet short enough that the dog couldn't jump out.
4. Check the water before pouring it on the dog. Do not try to fill a tub full and have them lay down in it. This is even more threatening. If they thrash around, there's a chance they will go under, terrifying them even more!
5. Don't use too much soap - the more soap the longer the dog must stay in the tub. If you're worried they won't handle it well, soap up only one part of the dog, so that you can rinse that area quickly if you need to get them out.
6. Use messaging and calm quiet words to keep the dog nice and calm.
7. After you finish the bath, take the dog on leash to go outside. With all the stress of the bath, they may not realize they need to go potty, especially if they get "a high" from being wet. Keeping them on leash is important. Most dogs will go roll in dirt or sand, rub against bushes or trees, or even roll in the grass after a bath. If they are that excited they may not listen to you when you call which could be disastrous if they get out of a fenced area.
8. Take your dog's collar off until they are completely dry. Hotspots can occur when moisture is held close to their skin.
I hope these tips help you out, whether your a long time dog owner, or brand new to all this fun. Keeping all these things in mind has certainly increased the amount of good experiences for me and my two loving fuzzballs.
Friday, October 4, 2013
Peace or World War 3? Dogs and cats - keeping the peace.
Dogs add so much fun and pleasure to our lives. Cats keep us guessing, and entertain us with their individual personalities. When we put them together, they can combine all these wonderful qualities, or they can become a headache or even world war three! So how do we make sure that we get the best of both worlds, and maintain a peaceful home?
Bringing a new dog into the home can cause friction, and when it comes to cats, they hate change. Even if the change has already occurred, these tips may be what you need to create a home of peace.
The very first step is to teach your dog a few helpful behaviors. My favorite is the positive interrupter.
The positive interrupter is a sound that you condition your dog to respond to, no matter the circumstance. I use kissing lips and a whistle. Choose one sound, you can add another later if you find it's important for a new situation. I personally use kissing in the house, and whistle out in the field where my dogs need a louder sound. I do not use my dogs' names, as they hear it far too often, and also because you must reward every time you make the sound.
After choosing the sound, make it and reward the dog. I enjoy using a marker in my classes, and teach my students to make the sound, click as soon as the dog turns its' head toward them, and encourage the dog to run towards them for the treat. By clicking the instant the dog turns its' head, the dog will turn more quickly each time. Having the dog run towards you for the treat is very important! Do this in low distraction areas, gradually using it in more difficult situations. The harder the situation, the better your treats must be in order to maintain the same energy.
The energy in running towards you will be crucial in recalling the dog when near the cat. Use this to keep intense focus when working near the cat.
Having a perfected leave it is also helpful. Teach leave it in a completely positive manner. If your dog does not want to leave it, then chasing the cat will be more rewarding than listening to you. You must be more rewarding than any interaction with your cat. Also remember to take the time to perfect your leave it command with distractions and distance before attempting off leash work with your dog and cat together.
As with any situation, you must control it well from the start and not allow the dog and cat to practice undesirable interactions! This will only make matters worse. A few tips for keeping the situation under control :
1. Keep the dog on leash, and do not be in a hurry to do off leash work. When you do want to take the dog off leash, do so gradually. Let the dog drag a long line first, then a 6 foot leash. Remember to use a harness when connected to a long line for safety purposes!
2. Give the cat space. Use a baby gate to keep the dog from entering the cat's space for a time, or close doors to prevent the dog access.
3. Put the cat's litter box, food, and water in a place they feel safe. Do not expect the cat and dog to share a water bowl. Many cats will refuse to drink where the dog can get to them, they are vulnerable. And the dog may not appreciate the cat near the water. Also, you do not want your dog to have the habit of eating cat food. Being high in protein, cat food is one of the ultimate junk foods to pack on the pounds for your dog.
4. Do not force any interactions. Dogs do not need to actually be in contact with something to work on socialization, they simply need to be within hearing or seeing range of the object or animal. Let the dog and cat get very comfortable at a distance. (cat eating treats on couch while dog chews on bone across the room ect.) - make sure it's a very pleasurable time for all involved! The more positively they can associate time together, the more quickly they will learn to tolerate and even enjoy one another!
5. It does not matter if the dog is on leash or not, always provide many escape routes for the cat! The last thing you want is for either of your pets to feel at all trapped. If your dog happens to be scared of the cat, make sure that the dog can escape! With this situation, do not hold the dog, or keep it still with the leash. If he wants to run, let him...work at a comfortable distance.
As always, remember that basic obedience can help keep the peace. Not only will your dog know behaviors to help control him, but your dog's energy will be more controlled. The more calm and relaxed the better. So use both physical exercise and mental exercise to help your dog manage his energy.
Bringing a new dog into the home can cause friction, and when it comes to cats, they hate change. Even if the change has already occurred, these tips may be what you need to create a home of peace.
The very first step is to teach your dog a few helpful behaviors. My favorite is the positive interrupter.
The positive interrupter is a sound that you condition your dog to respond to, no matter the circumstance. I use kissing lips and a whistle. Choose one sound, you can add another later if you find it's important for a new situation. I personally use kissing in the house, and whistle out in the field where my dogs need a louder sound. I do not use my dogs' names, as they hear it far too often, and also because you must reward every time you make the sound.
After choosing the sound, make it and reward the dog. I enjoy using a marker in my classes, and teach my students to make the sound, click as soon as the dog turns its' head toward them, and encourage the dog to run towards them for the treat. By clicking the instant the dog turns its' head, the dog will turn more quickly each time. Having the dog run towards you for the treat is very important! Do this in low distraction areas, gradually using it in more difficult situations. The harder the situation, the better your treats must be in order to maintain the same energy.
The energy in running towards you will be crucial in recalling the dog when near the cat. Use this to keep intense focus when working near the cat.
Having a perfected leave it is also helpful. Teach leave it in a completely positive manner. If your dog does not want to leave it, then chasing the cat will be more rewarding than listening to you. You must be more rewarding than any interaction with your cat. Also remember to take the time to perfect your leave it command with distractions and distance before attempting off leash work with your dog and cat together.
As with any situation, you must control it well from the start and not allow the dog and cat to practice undesirable interactions! This will only make matters worse. A few tips for keeping the situation under control :
1. Keep the dog on leash, and do not be in a hurry to do off leash work. When you do want to take the dog off leash, do so gradually. Let the dog drag a long line first, then a 6 foot leash. Remember to use a harness when connected to a long line for safety purposes!
2. Give the cat space. Use a baby gate to keep the dog from entering the cat's space for a time, or close doors to prevent the dog access.
3. Put the cat's litter box, food, and water in a place they feel safe. Do not expect the cat and dog to share a water bowl. Many cats will refuse to drink where the dog can get to them, they are vulnerable. And the dog may not appreciate the cat near the water. Also, you do not want your dog to have the habit of eating cat food. Being high in protein, cat food is one of the ultimate junk foods to pack on the pounds for your dog.
4. Do not force any interactions. Dogs do not need to actually be in contact with something to work on socialization, they simply need to be within hearing or seeing range of the object or animal. Let the dog and cat get very comfortable at a distance. (cat eating treats on couch while dog chews on bone across the room ect.) - make sure it's a very pleasurable time for all involved! The more positively they can associate time together, the more quickly they will learn to tolerate and even enjoy one another!
5. It does not matter if the dog is on leash or not, always provide many escape routes for the cat! The last thing you want is for either of your pets to feel at all trapped. If your dog happens to be scared of the cat, make sure that the dog can escape! With this situation, do not hold the dog, or keep it still with the leash. If he wants to run, let him...work at a comfortable distance.
As always, remember that basic obedience can help keep the peace. Not only will your dog know behaviors to help control him, but your dog's energy will be more controlled. The more calm and relaxed the better. So use both physical exercise and mental exercise to help your dog manage his energy.
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